Featuring Frankie “The Bull” Terzoli at the Helm
by brandon cezares ~
Frankie’s travels and years as a young chef are evident in the variety of flavors available to diners at his restaurant. From Italian-inspired dishes like the Creamy Shrimp and Scallop Farfalle to a Japanese Ahi Poke Bowl with wakame and shoyu sesame, Sirens offers rare and quality flavors from around the world without having to book a single flight.
What makes the food at Sirens so special is the attention given to high-quality ingredients and a keen focus on texture. The fairy-dusted coat of breading on their Pan-Seared Halibut is a perfect example of the restaurant’s dedication to the small stuff. This thin coating locks in the moisture and spices, preventing the internal juices from drying out or leaking on the plate, and provides a satisfying bite and crispness to contrast the soft and savory halibut.
Another excellent creation is Sirens’ signature Smoked Tuna Melt, which Terzoli boasts is the best tuna melt in the city, if only due to the fact that Sirens smokes their own tuna in-house. Made with a slice of open-faced grilled sourdough and topped with delicately smoked tuna that has been mixed with melted brie cheese, it is as rich and complex as it is simple, and will definitely make a lasting impression for any lunch outing.
Many of the bold dishes, such as the Gulf Shrimp Po’ Boy and Cuttlefish Caprese, are a close reflection of the daring man behind their creation. Though he is often called by his nickname, “The Bull,” Frank Terzoli is more of a shark in deep water; one who thrives in chaos, performs under pressure, and stays hungry for more.
One of Terzoli’s formative memories involves being pushed overboard by his father in order to untangle a fishing net (with chain and cable) from his boat’s propeller. Terzoli recalls being surrounded by about 20 tons of white-tipped sharks for a good hour while he diligently untangled the net, eventually being welcomed back aboard to a celebratory crew and a father who only now believed his young son had the right to be a captain.
Terzoli’s fearless attitude continued through his professional life, during which he not only performed routine hauling shipments such as selling 65,000 tons of squid to China, but also made appearances in a number of Food Network and Fox programs like Cutthroat Kitchen and Top Chef. And although he is proud of his time on television, he describes the experience as stressful and hot, if only because of the combination of heavy lights, fiery stoves, time crunches, cameras, and the warm time of year during which the specials were filmed.
A very busy man, Frankie had to leave early to tend to his kitchen staff and other matters, during which I sipped on Sirens’ Maneater Cocktail, a blend of tequila, rum, vodka, gin, orange liqueur, and superfood watermelon kefir. My second choice was the Mezcal Negroni, which features Casamigos mezcal, Campari, and Carpano Antigua. The Maneater was fresh, sweet, and bubbly, while the Negroni had a thick, syrup-like consistency and bitter undertones.
My only regret after leaving the restaurant was that I didn’t have the room to try any of the other dishes that sounded amazing, such as the Chicken Fillet Gumbo or the Lobster Mac and Cheese. Frankie assured me before I left that I had “only touched the tip of the iceberg” during my visit. With a menu so diverse and large, I can guarantee any first-time visitor that they will not see or taste all Sirens has to offer on their first go. Much like the folktales of sirens at sea, it always beckons back visitors with something satisfying and irresistible to get lost in.
Sirens Bar & Restaurant, located at 3797 Park Boulevard, is open six days a week for brunch, lunch and dinner except Tuesday when they’re open from 4 to 10 p.m. and Mondays when they are shuttered. For more information or to make reservations, call 619.510.4933 or go to sirenssd.com.
